2000-11-02 in London, England
DAY 1
The big day finally arrived… We began our day after oversleeping by an hour.. « chase the rain »
2000-11-03 in Neideresach, Germany
On the way to Germany
Left Reims early the next morning and headed off to Germany via Strasbourg. « getting sorted »
2000-11-05 in Neideresach, Germany
Neidereshach/Zurich/Milano
Sunday was the best bike ride of our lives. (I hope I can say that once a week!). « who thought we would enjoy it this much? »
2000-11-06 in Milan, Italy
Running Errands and gettin' soaked in Milan
so much for site seeing « what did we see? »
2000-11-07 in Firenze, Italy
Another Day in Italia
With a full day ahead of us Florence seemed full of promise. . « so much for promise »
2000-11-10 in Roma, Italy
Roaming in Roma
Well, we thought the Italians were supposed to be friendly. We found Roma very boring and the sights very passe. I guess we really are culture vultures « Rome and the Romans »
2000-11-11 in Roma, Italy
On the way to Bari
Getting out of Dodge - Roma « outta here! »
2000-11-12 in E92, Northern Greece
Quick Pics
a few photos of the sites to be seen « say cheese »
2000-11-12 in Igoumenitsa, Greece
Arriving in Paradise
The route from Igoumenitsa to Thessalonika made this the 2nd Sunday in a row to go into our biking hall of fame « no more autostradas »
2000-11-16 in Dogubayazit, Turkey
Fastrack through Turkey, Istanbul - Dogubazit
flea hotels, cycling kiwis,kebabs, cold weather, more beautiful roads « and more speeding fines »
2000-11-20 in Tabriz, Iran
Arriving in Iran (not quite paradise)
Leaving the border post with our newly acquired 3rd party insurance seemed easy enough. Until of course something had to happen: « the Iranian petrol crisis »
2000-11-22 in Mahneshan, Iran
Arrested Development
The smart money was always on us getting arrested in Iran… « held up and tied down »
2000-11-23 in Esfahan, Iran
A pretty city
Lady luck had seemed to show herself once again (the only lady who does around these parts) « about time too! »
2000-11-25 in Shiraz, Iran
Heading South
We found Shiraz to be very overrated. Overpriced and over-policed « what did we like... »
2000-11-26 in Bam, Iran
Banged up in Bam near the border
The next day we headed for Bam, 750kms away « The Road Less Travelled »
2000-11-30 in Quetta, Pakistan
Finally in Pakistan
taking the desert road east. « hit the dirt »
2000-12-05 in Quetta, Pakistan
Out of Quetta via the old Choo choo
So we decided to cheat and take the train « going in a straight line »
2000-12-07 in Lahore, Pakistan
Got Rubber?
A semi-first world city always makes for a change « getting organised and getting out »
2000-12-09 in Amritsar, India
Holy Cows and Cold Kingfishers
Suddenly the world brightenedup and put on a smiley face. We had made it to India « come on in »
2000-12-13 in Agra, India
Some cheesy tourist snaps
We wondered around the Taj Mahal today « say cheese »
2000-12-14 in Pushkar, India
Hippy Immersion
In Pushkar and looking at the Ghats. Oh, give me the simple life « Fancy a swim? »
2000-12-16 in Udaipur, India
A touch of Glamour
Udaipur is another very beautiful Rajastahni city. (not to forget the scene of Octopussy...) « the need to know »
2000-12-17 in Daman, India
The Road to Bombay
…is the busiest road in India! It’s true, it really is. « dodging the orange trucks »
2000-12-18 in Bombay, India
Steve's Birthday on the road and in Bombay
It was time to find some civlisation « The Whistlestop Birthday Tour of Bombay »
2000-12-21 in Goa, India
We had made it to the Beach
National Highway 17 is the road to Goa. It is surprisingly empty and reassuringly crooked. « a trip to the seaside »
2000-12-23 in Goa, India
The story of the Karma Tourer
My baby, my Beemer, she needed a new look « protected by the Gods »
2001-01-23 in Goa, India
Coconuts and Sunsets
Passing our time in the time-honoured tradition in Goa of doing nothing « come climb with me »
2001-02-03 in Hampi, India
Walking the Ruins in Hampi
So finally we decided hit the road. The first day felt like going back to school. Lesson One: never try to play chicken with a suicidal bus driver who believes in re-incarnation « more lessons to follow »
2001-02-07 in Ohm Beach, India
The Road to the coast, Om Beach, Jogg Falls
After the dirt and mozzies in Hampi we resigned ourselves to the fact that we were suffering from beach withdrawal, we headed west to the paradise of Om Beach! « going swimmingly »
2001-02-12 in Mysore, India
A whole lot of Bull
We started our trip from Jogg Falls to as-far-as-we-could-get to Cochin bright and early. But then there was « bovine intervention »
2001-02-22 in Goa, India
My sister, Ariella, arrives!
After a two week waiting period, my beloved sister finally touched down on the sandy shores of Goa « the sister has landed »
2001-02-28 in Goa, India
Last Pics of Goa
Finally. I did it. I managed to escape the evil clutches of the palm trees and coconuts « « leaving the beach (again) »
2001-03-07 in Cochin, India
Everything went South
It started out just being the direction I was travelling, I managed to get on the road by 6:30 am just before sunrise and had made 655kms by 17:30 that evening. I had ridden from Morjim, Goa to Calicut, Kerala. I was knackered and ready for bed. « the next day was slightly different »
2001-03-13 in Cochin, India
A good day in India
Ariella arrived today by aeroplane and so did my spare parts! « if only everyday was like this »
2001-03-23 in Kannyakamuri, India
The Deep South of India
We left Cochin on a bright sunny day, fought our way through the crowds and headed further south towards the tip of India. « and guess what... »
2001-04-01 in Kodai Kanal
Leaving Cochin and on the way to the East Coast
Well a lot happened before I actually got to leave Cochin. « what it takes to leave »
2001-04-09 in Calcutta, India
NH5 -The Road To Calcutta (is paved if you're lucky)
What a lousy drive. That damn road.
« the road from hell »
2001-04-13 in Kathmandu, Nepal
Escape from Hindustan and other (mis) adventures
Ariella and I entered Nepal on a sunny day on the 12th of April after spending one night in Siliguri. We wound our way through the last of the murderous roads of India and arrived in the Indian border town of Raniganj (pronounced runny gunge...need I say « playing in the moutains »
2001-04-22 in The Last Resort, Nepal
Bungeeeeeeee
One day of Bungee Jumping, one day of white water rafting and three days of canyoning, not a bad way to spend five days… « you first »
2001-05-07 in Pokhara, Nepal
The climb that never was
After Bungee Jumping we were to meet up with Richard, Rachel, Paul and Jill (see Pakistan stories). There was a big plan to do some serious trekking up to Annapurna Base Camp, this went horribly wrong for me as my guts succumbed to Katmandu Belly « feeling flushed »
2001-05-16 in Pokhara, Nepal
Pictures from the ABC Trek
No story here I am afraid, just 4 of the best snaps from our time on the mountain. Ariella, unlike me, made it to the top… « Climbing high with little sis »
2001-05-18 in Kathmandu, Nepal
Packing up the bikes and heading for the sky
We had reached the end of the road. No way through China without paying shedloads of cash and no way through Burma, cos, after all it is Burma! « Steve and his wonderful flying machine »
2001-05-23 in Bangkok, Thailand
Welcome to Siam
We arrived in Bangkok on time and without hiccups – have we really seen the last of Indian/Nepali efficiency? « dodging traffic and lady-boys »
2001-06-10 in Sukhothai, Thailand
My day in Ruins
The ancient capital of Thailand, ruins galore. Come on let’s get some culture! « going walkabout »
2001-06-16 in Chiang Mai, Thailand
North Thailand, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and The Golden Triangle
In case I haven’t mentioned it, Thailand is more than a little like America. (did I mention the Dunkin’ Donuts concessionaries in the petrol stations?). Well, Chiang Mai is most definitely an extension of this. « going north »
2001-06-20 in Huay Xai, Laos
The other side of the Mekong – undeveloped, unspoiled, smiling faces and cheap beer.
Being in Laos one immediately notices how different things are over here. Firstly there were no immigration officers to stamp our passports when we entered the country, instead we were told to go and look for them. « into Communism... »
2001-06-25 in Luang Prabang, Laos
Luang Prabang to Vientiane – a driver’s story.
The biggest surprise of the whole trip happened right here on the road from Luang Prabang. « riding the snake »
2001-07-05 in Vientiane, Laos
Return to the other side
I was so close. We had made it to Vientiane, only a day or two from Vietnam. What could possibly go wrong? Well if one is ever in doubt, always start with your tyres. « Remember the punctures? »
2001-07-07 in Savannakhet, Laos
Bangkok (Thailand) to Hue (Vietnam) in three days
All the pictures on this leg come from Laos. Not surprising really, this country is the most photogenic one I’ve ever seen.
« smiley, happy people and dodgy roads »
2001-07-10 in Hue, Vietnam
First impressions are everything
I suppose it is because of the American War (that’s what they call it here) that Vietnam has a mystique about it, that is, of course, until you go there. Then it’s just lunatic driving, officious bureaucracy, lousy roads and pushy street side vendors. « It’s not that bad »
2001-07-12 in Hoi An, Vietnam
Evolving into a Package Tourist on the Nha Trang & Dalat Tourist trail
Hoi An is a World Heritage Site and has preserved its old city remarkably well. It is a town set on a river established by Japanese immigrants about 7 hundred years ago. « Come and see my shop »
2001-07-13 in Saigon, Vietnam
Friday the 13th Part II
The last time I drove on Friday the 13th it was the 13th of April and we were 100 kms from Kathmandu. I remember it well because we hit an oil slick and went flying. « Just my luck »
2001-07-23 in Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Into Cambodia with a new bearing – will it last?
Finally! We mad it out of Vietnam, crossing the border there was more stressful than the roads we had encountered. There is nothing more disconcerting than a border guard with time on his hands. « Welcome to Kampuchia! »
2001-07-26 in Siam Reap, Cambodia
Angkor Wat - Ruination!
Everything you have read about it is true. An awe-inspiring place. Most folks spend a bit of time her, picnicking and sketching etc etc, but I was suffering from temple burnout having been all through the Subcontinent and S.E. Asia I need a holiday! « Angkor in a day »
2001-08-03 in Ko Phangan, Thailand
Back to Thailand and down South to the Islands
This story begins on a sad note: Ariella has gone back to South Africa. Due to a mixture of logistical nightmares and the amount of time any human can put up with the combination of me and overlanding through Asia, we decided a sabbatical would be best. « going solo »
2001-08-26 in Ko Lanta, Thailand
Last beaches before Malaysia
As it turned out Krabi did not prove to be the haven I was looking for. More tourists, souvenir shops and over-priced restaurants with photos on their menus (definitely a no-no!). So back on the bike, a quick blast down the coast to find peace and tranquillity, not to mention that ever elusive bungalow on the beach. « Island hopping »
2001-09-06 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
A fantastic surprise
From Trang I travelled down highway 4 to the Malaysian border and crossed without incident. There is one road from the Thai-Malaysian border all the way to Singapore, more a super-highway than a road according to locals. Everyone will tell you this because in Malaysia they really pride themselves on the biggest and the best. « Bigger and better? »
2001-09-25 in Kota Bharu, Malaysia
The Northern Malaysia Loop, Perhenthians, Kota Baru, Cameron Highlands and Penang
The Perhentian Islands were my next destination after Cherating, and I had made promises of exotic photos from my scuba diving there. Well, surprise, surprise on the second day of diving the waterproof housing for my camera flooded. « just my luck »
2001-10-06 in Singapore
A small country with a big heart and loads of bureaucracy.
I had been warned. It is difficult to drive in Singapore; it is paperwork and toll booths and funny gadgets that get zapped when you enter the heart of the city. I had to see for myself. Plus I needed to visit BMW for a major service. « feeling warm all over »
2001-10-07 in Malacca, Malaysia
Malacca Madness
We headed back to Malaysia to catch a boat from there to Sumatra, I hadn’t been following the news as attentively as most people and the day after I had arrived in Malacca my inbox was full of emails from my friends in Singapore warning of the dangers of Indonesia. « Into the eye of the storm »
2001-10-10 in Dumai, Indonesia
Arriving in Indonesia, and farewell to Malaysia
Well, the adventure has really started again. Off into the unknown against all advice from everyone who knows me. Arriving in Dumai, Sumatra had me feeling like I had landed back in India. The customs and immigration offices resembled a wendy house rather than a government building and of course there is, my favourite in Asia, the queue jumpers! Why do people always push in front of a queue in Asia? « Jumping ship »
2001-10-13 in Danau Toba, Sumatra, Indonesia
Hanging out in the lake
Danau Toba kept its promise of being a special place to come and unwind and find peace etc etc, the problem was we were looking for adventure not chilling. Four days later we were bored to death and headed south towards Bukkitingi and Lake Maninjao. « A brief moment of excitement »
2001-10-19 in Danau Maninjao, Sumatra, Indonesia
Moonscapes, Sunsets and Paddy Fields
Okay, Okay. I know what you’re thinking: “what’s with the lakes?” You see Sumatra has these lakes because of all the volcanic activity that created the land in the first place. Maninjao is very special because one can actually see all the walls of the crater that it is in. Complemented by a small sandy beach and crystal clear water it makes a good overnight (or longer) rest stop. « Dirty thoughts »
2001-10-21 in Padang, Sumatra, Indonesia
Taking the love boat!
The things I do for my family, I tell ya! I am of the opinion that riding across Java is no more dangerous than riding across London. But in order to satisfy the nerves of the women in both Louise’s and my family I am presently in the confinement of Indonesia’s answer to the QE2, and believe me – there is no comparison. « Sail away with me »
2001-10-25 in Bali, Indonesia
Selling my soul and other tales
Bali, well, what can I say? I have chased the myth once again. Bali is one of those names that conjur up images of sun-kissed white sand beaches and tropical paradise. Just mention the name to anyone stuck in a 9 to 5 job and their faces will light up. « for you special price… »
2001-11-02 in Bali, Indonesia
Not quite roughing it!
After an innocent email to Toby (see intro in previous story) we were flung into a world of luxury I haven't known for quite some time. 2 days in a beautiful house in Ubud, the lovely, cool climate cultural centre of Bali. Followed by 4 nights in a 5 star luxury resort as a guest of the chef! Can you think of a better way to mark one year on the road? Well I can't. « the only way to travel? »
2001-11-12 in Sumbawa, Indonesia
Bali, Lombok and Sumbawa in 3 days!
It happened so quickly, one day we were having a chat with Bruno (my new best mate in Bali, and our host), just talking about going to Flores seeing the three Kelimutu craters and talking about time frames. Doug was there too, we were all adding our thoughts when Bruno suddenly announces:”To hell with it, tomorrow we leave at 5 am and I take a holiday!” He also very kindly offered Doug the use of his R80 Basic for the trip as he was taking his R80GS. Suddenly we are a gang, and boy do we feel cool « the meaning of rock and roll »
2001-11-22 in Flores, Indonesia
Volcanoes, mountains and the smell of adventure
Flores is beautiful, these are the first words I should write. The landscape is rugged, volcanic, green, lush, and a dream to ride through. It was photos I saw of this island that convinced me to come to Indonesia, thanks to Rudy, my Austrian overlanding musician friend. « thank you Rudy »
2001-11-24 in Flores, Indonesia
Tyre trouble for the tourist traveller
Having reached my most easternmost point in my Indonesian travels at Kelimutu we turned around and started heading back. The first stop was in a mountain-top village called Bajawa, famous for its surrounding tribal villages, volcano and hot springs. « doing the tourist thing »
2001-11-25 in Flores, Indonesia
Diving and Dragons, all in a days work
Back to where I began this tour of Flores, in this shoddy port town of Labuan Bajo. Finding we had two days to kill we leapt at the chance to mix a bit of diving and komodo dragon watching into an action packed Sunday. « better than football »
2001-12-10 in Sydney, Australia
Arriving in OZ-tralia and getting out of the Big Smoke
It finally happened, I made it to Australia in one piece and so did my bike. It took a total of 5 and a half hours to get the bike out of the airport, but I passed quarantine inspection and was happy enough to be back on the bike within a day of touching down. « the happy camper »
2001-12-25 in Melbourne, Australia
The Great Ocean Road
The Great Ocean Road is hailed by ozzies as one of their great scenic drives, I must say it is a lovely drive but a bit unfulfilling if you are a thrill seeker. What it lacks in twists and turns (and suicidal truck drivers) it makes up for in great camping spots.
« living the simple life »
2002-02-02 in Melbourne, Australia
The Waiting Game
I arrived back in Melbourne on the Christmas Day with the intention of seeing the Boxing Day test at the MCG and meeting cousins at a planned re-union later that day. My initial plan of going to Tasmania was put on the back burner by the fact that my bike was way past the limits of emission regulations with the amount of black smoke coming out of the back. It was time to have the engine looked at. « Family and four wheels »
2002-02-14 in Adelaide, Australia
The St Valentine’s Day Moussaka
I arrived in Adelaide on Valentine’s Day upon my trusty steed. I spent 4 days getting here from Melbourne. On the way out of town I met another overlander, Andy Miller, he is one of the unlucky ones who found themselves on motorbikes and on the wrong side of Pakistan in September last year. He had to fly his bike from Dubai to India to avoid the war zone. After a quick chat we realised we were both heading to Lorne on the Great Ocean Rd so we rode together and planned to meet my friend, Doug (Of Bali to Flores fame, see previous story). « go west »
2002-02-25 in Alice Springs, Australia
Be Careful What You Wish For
I did end my last story rather wistfully longing for adventure, and guess what? I got it. But was it the adventure that I was looking for? No, it was something far worse…
« Get me outta here! »
2004-06-14 in London, England
Smashed up
Just a quick story to show you what happens when some one jumps a light in London. « about face »